In the quest of more leisure time, I have performed many scientific experiments. Several years back I bought all the top brand ultraviolet filter varnishes. On separate pieces of teak I painted the different brands of varnishes and left them outdoors for nine months. From this experiment I was able to choose a brand based on how long it lasted and how easy it was to use. But, in the real world, on the boat, I still had to varnish my teak every three or four months to maintain a nice finish. Once, out of desperation, I invited some of my boating friends and pulled a Tom Sawyer, I don't know if it was the beer or lack of talent, but what a mess! It sure didn't turn out like Aunt Sally's fence. I even thought about hiring someone, but that was quenched when I got the estimate.

Well, you say, if you don't like to varnish your wood, why don't you oil your wood? I've tried many teak oils; it takes about the same amount of effort to maintain a nice finish. I found that most teak oils attract dirt, and after several cleaning's and applications of oil, the wood grain stands up, consequently losing the smooth surface I desired.
So, I've decided to try everything once and everything seems to take the same amount of effort and time, give or take a few man hours. Bottom line, if you want your wood to look nice, spend the time. Experiment with different products. Find something that suits your patience and personality.

Removing the old varnish. I usually don't have a lot of patience with this part of the job. If something takes longer than I think it should, my mind goes into a kind of auto mode, thinking up faster ways of doing the same job. Instead of sanding the varnish down to the wood and having problems getting to those hard-to-get-to places, with varnish dust flying all over everyone's boat, including mine, I prefer to use varnish remover. This can be very dangerous to the gel coat, but if you use a marine type paste remover and lots of tape, you can avoid any damage to your gel coat.

Spend the time to remove any wood, if possible, from the boat, even if the wood has been screwed and plugged. The time it takes to remove the teak plugs and replace them will save you many hours of work striping, sanding, and painting while the wood is still attached. It's a lot easier to remove old varnish on a dock or at home.

Take care when drilling out the plugs. First use a small 1/8-inch drill bit and carefully drill through the center of the plug. Drill until you hit the top of the screw. Try not to drill into the screw head as damage to the slot can make it difficult to remove. Then choose a drill bit approximately 1/32 smaller then the plug size. Again, drill until you hit the top of the screw and then remove the screw. If the screw is damaged and cannot be removed, locate the center of the screw head, then use a 1/4-inch drill bit, and drill until the head separates from the shank. Later, when the wood is removed, use pliers to unscrew the shank from its position.

Before applying the remover to the teak that can't be removed from the boat, carefully tape around the work to be done with two layers of masking tape, one on top of the other. A solvent-resistant masking tape will greatly reduce the risk to your gel coat. Be sure you wear thick rubber gloves, eye protection and a long-sleeve shirt. If any remover gets in contact with your skin, immediately wash with water.

Apply the paste remover with an old paint brush. Work on small areas.   Be attentive not to get a lot of paste remover on the tape. Apply several coats until the varnished area is totally saturated. If you do get remover on your gel coat, immediately wash with water. Let paste stand for the manufacturer's recommended time. After old finish bubbles loose from the surface, remove most of the paste and old varnish with a putty knife. Next, take a coarse wet rag and wipe area clean. Remove the tape as soon as possible and wipe area clean again with cool water. (Water dilutes the remover, minimizing the risk to the gel coat). Scrub the teak with a coarse brass wool using lots of water. Do not use steel wool, it will leave rust spots on your gel coat.

Before sanding, check the wood for algae (black streaks and specs in the grain.) A solution of 8 oz. of chlorine bleach to 1 gallon of water will remove the mildew, mold, or algae. Scrub with a stiff brush or coarse scrubbing pad, working the solution into the grain. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Wipe clean and let the teak dry for sanding. To obtain a smooth surface, sand lightly with 80-100 grit sandpaper.

In the case of weathered teak, use a teak cleaner. There are several products that will open the grain and restore the teak to its natural color. Several brand cleaners have detergents that remove  teak oils and sealers that have begun to age and deteriorate. Try to stay away from cleaners that contain acids. The acids will destroy the softer grains, leaving the wood porous and rough.

Before replacing the wood that was removed from the boat, varnish, seal or oil the wood. This will save you time in the taping preparation. Remember to use an equivalent size countersink drill to clean out the existing holes. Replace the wood using the same size Philips head screws. Dip one end of the teak plug into wood glue and tap in with a hammer until the plug bottoms out. If a hole has been damaged, put more glue around the installed plug and sprinkle teak sawdust on the glue. Press the sawdust into the glue with your finger. Let dry and sand the plug flush with the surface of the wood. An orbital sander works great for this task.
 

TEAK CLEANING TIPS

Everybody agrees—there's nothing prettier than well maintained brightwork. And most also agree there are few general maintenance jobs more time consuming and difficult to achieve. Teak, a naturally oily, weather-resistant wood, is virtually rotproof. But over the course of a season—or less, depending on weather conditions—it fades to a gray color which looks, well, not cared for.   The secret to beautiful teak is a consistent maintenance regimen, but the best teak care begins with a healthy wood. A healthy wood is completely flat of grain and naturally light brown. Check to see that the grain is in proper condition by running a fingernail across the grain. If it runs smoothly across the wood, it's in good shape; if it ripples as you scrape, the grain is too open and presents an opportunity for decline. To keep teak decks healthy give them a weekly washdown and flush them regularly with clean saltwater. Saltwater is a bleaching agent which keeps mildew from growing.  Once your teak is healthy, you can keep it looking beautiful with consistent cleaning and sealing.

Cleaning Teak Trim and Toe Rails

There are several cleaners on the market. Essentially, these cleaners are various strengths of bleach. You want to first spray your entire boat thoroughly with water before applying any cleaner. The water protects your gelcoat and painted surfaces from the caustic acid in cleaners which can eat away at these surfaces. If your trim and rails are gray, mildewed, or dirty, let the water soak into the surface before applying the cleaner. Use a bristle brush to apply and wear gloves. Be careful not to let the cleaner stand on fiberglass or other painted surfaces for long periods.

 Brighteners

Because bare wood collects mildew and turns gray, brighteners are essential. They strip the toxins from your teak wood so that its true golden color can shine through, Brighteners also help to bring out the highlights in your wood. Apply brighteners to your teak after it has been thoroughly cleaned and rinsed off. Be sure to rinse your trim and rails after applying the brightener.

Sealing

The type of sealer you choose depends upon how often you must repeat the process. If you don't have a lot of time to maintain your boat, use a sealer that will last a relatively long span of time. But not all sealers come in colors that suit all people. So, when choosing a sealer make sure to choose one that not only suits your maintenance schedule, but one that will burnish your teak to the color you'll want all season.

Follow Up Deck Care

The best way to protect your teak trim, toe rails, and deck is to cover your boat whenever it's not in use with full boat cover. And remember to give your boat a proper wash down at least twice a month.

An Important Note

Most teak cleaners are not detergents— many contain strong acids or alkalis such as oxalic acid, potassium or sodium hydroxide or hydrogen chloride in varying strengths designed to do the tough job of cleaning worn and weathered teak. Use them with care—they may cause chemical burns on skin or eyes. They can also damage other materials in your work area, lift paint and varnish, mar fiberglass surfaces, destroy anodizing on aluminum, and etch chrome fittings. Not all are properly labeled.   When handling teak cleaners, wear rubber gloves, keep a hose handy, and always thoroughly flush the area where these chemicals are used. If skin contact is made, flush with running water. Consider wearing goggles to protect your eyes from being splashed. Avoid fumes, which may irritate eyes.

Power Drill Power Orbital Sander Putty Knife Extension Cord Drill Bits Hammer Basic Hand Tools Solvent Resistant Masking Tape Throw-away Paint Brushes Coarse Nylon Scrubbing Pad Water Bucket Finishing Paint brush Masking Tape Protective Eye wear Rubber Gloves Long Sleeve Shirt

Stiff Scrub Brush Sponge Rags Peram Teak Light or Dark Coarse Steel Wool off the boat Coarse Brass Wool On the boat Phillips Head Screws Sandpaper 80,100,320 & 400 Grit Perma TEAK Cleaner Teak Plugs Wood Glue Teak Sawdust Chlorine Bleach Alcohol Countersink Drill Bit Varnish Remover