The first thing to do is to find a boatyard that has an owner do-it- yourself weekend. They usually haulout Friday morning and put your boat back in the water Monday morning. This will give you 3 full days to complete the job. If for some reason the job should take longer than expected, extra lay days are not expensive. You definitely should not rush, take the time to do the job right. Before I take my boat to the boatyard I have the bottom cleaned. Call your bottom cleaning service and let them know in advance to clean your boat bottom the day before haulout. This will save you time in scrubbing the bottom clean yourself when the boat is out. Most cleaning services don't mind changing your usual cleaning day to a new date, but if they can't,  an extra layday is cheaper then hiring someone to don scuba gear and scrub the bottom clean. If your bottom is in bad shape, most boatyards have a high-pressure spray that works great in removing algae and other kinds of sea life.

 Before prepping the hull for painting, inspect the hull for cracks and separation where the keel, strut post and through hulls join. Check the rudder post and propeller shaft for excess play. Also check for those pesky blisters that seem to pop up every once in a while. Later we will discuss how to repair the separations, blisters and cracks. If you do have repairs to make, now would be a good time to estimate how much epoxy will be needed.

 Several preparation steps are necessary before painting. The first workday is the day, hopefully, a lot of friends show up. Clean the hull free from any sea life. A coarse nylon bottom-scrubbing pad works best for this task. Rinse often with fresh water. Next, with a block sander, using 80-grit wet-dry sandpaper, sand smooth the top edge of the water line and  at least 6 inches down. The paint at the water line needs a good sanding, this is where the bottom paint usually chips away. Next, sand smooth any chipped-out paint spots and small cracks on the entire hull. Try not to sand into the gel coat. Repeatedly dip the block sander into a bucket of water, this will unclog the sand paper, making it easier for sanding. Frequently rinse the hull with fresh water using a garden hose with a pressure nozzle attached.  With the interest of time in mind, and when everyone is working and settled in the sanding job assigned to them, make the trip to the store to buy the necessary supplies for the epoxy repairs.

 When sanding, make sure that you and your friends are wearing thick rubber gloves, eye protection, and protective clothing. Try not to do any dry sanding with the old bottom paint. If dry sanding becomes necessary, use a surgical mask or full mask respirator.

 With most of the wet sanding out of the way, you can start on the repair of the separations, cracks and blisters. If you plan the above jobs in an organized manner, the repair task and the wet sanding can be performed simultaneously. Grinding or sanding is the most common method for opening blisters and cleaning out separations or cracks. Again be sure to wear protective clothing, eye protection and surgical mask when grinding or sanding. Eye protection is a must because blister fluid is frequently under as much as 200 PSI of pressure. When opened, the acidic blister fluid may squirt out with surprising force. The equipment required for this job includes a 1000-2000 RPM air or electric polisher, with an 8-inch foam sanding pad.

 Grind the hull beginning with coarse grit to stripe the bottom paint, open blisters, and clean out separations and large cracks. Hold the grinder at a low angle (5-10 degrees) to avoid deep gouges. Remove enough of the gel coat around separations or cracks to expose all of the damaged area. Keep grinding until a solid, undamaged surface is exposed. With blisters, continue removing the gel coat until the bulge of the blister is flush with the bottom. If the blister goes deep, you may choose to sand through all of the gel coat to the first layer of laminate. Grind the blister surface again with a finer grit to remove the coarser scratches and fair the surface. If sanded fair enough, little filling and fairing will be required for the blisters after sanding. After all the sanding and grinding is complete, flush the surface area with fresh water while scrubbing with a stiff brush or coarse nylon bottom- scrubbing pad.

 Allow the hull to sit overnight to dry out. Be sure the hull has dried before starting any filling operation. If in the morning the hull is wet or damp, fans or heaters directed at the surface may help speed up the process, making it possible to start the epoxy repairs sooner.

 The next step is called wetting out. Using a disposable paintbrush, paint the repair areas with an unthickened epoxy mixture (5 to 1 ratio hardener.) Most epoxy manufacturers have pumps that can be purchased with their product. The pumps make it easy for a correct ratio mixture. This  epoxy mix will saturate exposed reinforcing fibers making them stronger, and will provide a good base for the thick fairing mixture. Every cavity should be saturated with the epoxy mixture. Take care to work the epoxy into cracks or crevices. Wait for 30-60 minutes before applying the thickened epoxy mixture.

 Prepare a fairing compound by mixing a 5 to 1 ratio resin/hardener and a filler to a non-sagging, peanut butter consistency. A filler called Colloidal Silica (with a name like this, it's got to be good) has an extremely high-density, high-strength bond and works great for below waterline jobs. The idea is, the higher the density the less chance of water penetrating through to the hull.

Apply the fairing compound into the prepared cavities and blisters with a plastic squeegee before the wetting out reaches its cure stage. Read the directions on cure time. Curing time will vary due to outside temperature. Hold the squeegee at a low angle to leave the epoxy mixture smooth and filled slightly higher than the surrounding surface. Remove any excess epoxy before it cures. Allow the epoxy fairing compound to cure thoroughly before sanding.

 Sand the fairing material to blend with the surrounding contours. Start with the power sander to remove most of the epoxy filler on the repaired areas.  Begin with 50-grit sandpaper if you have a lot of fairing material to remove. When approaching the final contours, use 80-grit paper with a block sander or hand sand when close to the final finish. Remove the sanding dust and fill any remaining voids with a polyester filler (Bondo). This filler usually hardens in minutes. Sand again with 80-grit paper. The reason not to use epoxy filler on the remaining voids is purely a time consideration. If you have the time, it is preferable to mix a new batch of epoxy filler and repeat the above steps. Be sure to wear your protective dust mask when sanding.

 By now you must be thinking this is a lot of work. Well, your job is almost complete. This kind of a job is 90% preparation. So lets talk about the last 10%. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least overnight. In the morning, wash the hull surface clean and let it dry before painting. Tape the waterline with 1-1/2 inch masking tape, a wide tape will allow you to roll to the edge of the waterline without getting paint on the boot stripe. Be sure to use the blue or green tape. Regular masking tape will leave glue residue on the hull, making it difficult to remove from the boot stripe.

 The key to success with bottom paint is in the mixing. You can't mix this kind of paint enough. Use an electric power drill and a drill bit paint mixer to mix the paint thoroughly. Mix until there is no thick cuprous oxide left on the bottom. Each and every time you need to pour new paint into your paint pan, you must mix the paint again. The reason for this is that cuprous oxide is very heavy and will settle to the bottom within a few minutes. The cuprous oxide is the main antifouling ingredient; if left on the bottom of the paint can, your first applications won't anti foul anything. So remember, MIX, MIX, MIX and MIX.

 Roll the bottom paint on the hull, the same way you would roll a wall at home. The edge of the roller will leave excess paint; roll this out before getting more paint. Fair the paint out when overlapping. Role until overlapped areas have an even thickness of paint and a smooth- looking surface. I usually buy enough paint for two coats. Wait at least 2 hours before applying the second coat of paint, or until the first coat feels dry and hard to the touch. With any paint left over, paint the water line area again, any leading or trailing edges, sharp angles, or any area that will show wear first when cleaned with a scrubber under water. Don't forget to paint inside the through hulls and up the propeller shaft opening. Use small throwaway brushes for this job. With 2 complete coats applied, the bottom should last 18 months to 2 years.

 If time permits, now would be a good time to paint the boot stripe and polish the hull. Most boatyards have scaffolding that you can set up to fit your personal needs. The boot stripe is quite simple to paint. Tape the top and bottom of the boot stripe, burnish the edges of the tape to prevent paint from flowing under the tape. With a good quality enamel paintbrush and marine-grade, boot-stripe enamel, paint the boot stripe with light, even-pressured, horizontal back and forth strokes. Depending on the temperature, enamel paint can dry surprising fast, so don't stop painting until you have completed the entire boot stripe. It is preferable to apply 2 thin coats of enamel. If applied thick, the paint will run.

 Do not apply bottom paint to any sending instruments such as speed sender or depth finder. Don't forget to replace your sacrificial zinc, clean shaft or any surface area before replacing.

Please remember that this is a guide to get you started. After several haulouts you will become more efficient and have developed your own techniques for a job worthwhile and well done.

 Here are some things you should know and  think about when choosing a bottom paint. Check with the boatyard that you are hauling out at for what brand of bottom paint is EPA(Environmental Protective Agency) approved. There are several types of bottom paints. Hard finish, used for racing sailboats and powered speed boats. Ablative paint, which continues to shed its surface over the life of the paint, exposing fresh cuprous oxide. Traditional or soft paint, which is suitable for cruising boats and slow powered boats. They are generally epoxy-type paints. Because of the differences,  you must find out what type of paint is on your boat before buying. Many paints are not compatible and will not adhere. To give you an idea you can paint almost anything on vinyl, but the reverse is not true. If you don't know what type you have, wait until you haulout. Have the yard manager inspect your bottom paint, he will know what type it is. Also think about cost. The most expensive doesn't necessary mean it will be suited for your needs.

 Bottom line, choose a bottom paint that is EPA approved, easy to role on with a paint roller, compatible with what you have now, and remember the more cuprous oxide the better it will repel sea life.

 Let your bottom cleaning service know that the bottom has been freshly painted, and  to use a piece of carpet for cleaning for the next several months.

 Productivity is dependent on many things, an important item is food and drink. Have a generous supply of beverages (no alcohol) and fresh food in a cooler for your working crew. During the workday, take several breaks, talk with your crew about the next tasks to be accomplished. Remember if the haulout is a pleasant experience, you can expect these same friends back next year.

 Now that your boat is back in the water, don't let to much time go by, hang the BBQ off the stern, invite those hard working friends and have that boat bottom painting party!

Tools, Hardware and Supplies

Bottom paint (Read instructions before buying)
Marine enamel boot stripe-paint
Paintbrush cleaner (acetone)
Paint rollers and pans
Paint pan liners
Paintbrush for boot stripe, good quality
Throwaway paintbrushes, 1-inch and 3-inch
Drill bit paint mixer (very important)
Masking tape, Green or blue 1-1/2 inch
*Epoxy 5 to 1 ratio resin/hardener
*Colloidal Silica filler
*Paper mixing  buckets
*Mixing sticks
*Polyester filler (Bondo)
*Plastic fiberglass squeegees and mixing board
Coarse nylon bottom-scrubbing pads
Wet and dry sandpaper sheets 50 to 100 grit
*Sanding discs, coarse, medium and fine
Sanding blocks
Fiberglass cleaner and polish
Zinc
Old hose and nozzle
Water buckets
Putty knife
Wire brush
Basic personal handtools
Electric cord at least 50 feet
Power drill
Electric or air polisher
*Foam sanding pad
Protective masks, goggles, gloves
Long-sleeve shirts or plastic overalls
Stepladders, as many as possible
Lots of rags
Food and beverage

* Purchase these products only if needed and after estimating how much epoxy  will be required to repair the blisters, separations or cracks.