Hot Boating Tip
Put on protective clothing especially eye and hand protection.
Be sure to wash off sanding residue or solvents immediately after the job is completed.
Wash the boat's hull with a solution of one pint ammonia, a squirt of dish washing liquid and a gallon of warm water. Scrub with a brush or with a ScotchBrite pad. Rinse thoroughly with water.
Use a dewaxer to dissolve the mold release wax on new fiberglass hulls. Don't economize on the number of rags you use, because you can endup reapplying the wax if you re-use the rag too much. Use plenty of solvent to get the bottom really clean. These dewaxers work better than acetone or other organic solvents because they do not evaporate as fast, and they hold the wax in suspension better.
To provide a built-in renewal indicatorfor ablative type paints, try painting the first coat in one color with subsequent coats in a contrasting color. When the first coat begins to show through ,you'll know it's about time to recoat.
Because of the high cost of antifouling paints there is a tendency to stretch the paint to achieve more coverage. This may result in premature failure due to inadequate film thickness. Antifouling paints are made to be applied as they are received in the can. Use thinner sparingly.
The easiest method of applying antifouling paint is by rolling.
Ablative type paints depend upon a thick film to achieve a long service life. ln areas of high turbulence such as the bow,rudder,and leading edge of the keel extra coats are recommended.
The cuprous oxide toxicant in most bottom paints is a high density pigment that settles fairly rapidly. Be sure to mix the paint thoroughly before, and occasionally while, using.
Improperly grounded electrical systems aboard your boat may neutralize the effectiveness of anantifouling coating. Make sure all electrical work has been done properly and checked out thoroughly.